Right. So you’re thinking about putting in a walk in shower, yeah? I’ve got to tell you, it’s not as simple as just ripping out the old tub and slapping in some tiles. I learned that the hard way when I helped my mate Liam with his place in Hackney last autumn. Bloody nightmare, honestly. Damp patches on the ceiling below a week later—turns out we’d completely mucked up the tanking. Anyway, let’s chat about what actually matters.
First off, space. People think you can squeeze a walk-in shower anywhere. But if you’re starting from scratch, you really want a decent footprint. I’d say at the very least, 900mm by 900mm for it not to feel like you’re showering in a telephone box. And that’s before you even think about the door swing or where the glass panel goes. In my own flat in Balham, I sacrificed a bit of vanity unit length to get that spacious feel. Worth every centimetre, I reckon.
Then there’s the floor. This is where most DIYers trip up. Your floor needs to slope—properly!—towards the drain. We’re talking a fall of about 1:60 to 1:80. Too steep and you’ll feel like you’re standing on a hill, too gentle and you’ll have puddles round your ankles. I remember using a laser level at Liam’s until 2 a.m., swearing at a bag of self-levelling compound that had gone off. What a mess.
Waterproofing. Can’t stress this enough. Tanking isn’t optional, it’s your insurance policy. All the walls, the floor, the corners—everywhere. I once saw a job in Chelsea where they’d used regular plasterboard behind the tiles. Six months on, the whole thing was sagging and mouldy. Smelt like a wet dog. Proper tanking membrane or cement boards are your friends here. And sealant! Get a good quality sanitary silicone and don’t be shy with it.
Now, the plumbing. Ah, the fun part. Your waste pipe needs the right diameter and fall to avoid slow drainage. A 40mm pipe with a good gradient is usually the ticket. And the shower valve placement—oh, this is crucial. Too high, and you’re stretching; too low, and it feels like a kid’s bathroom. I always fit thermostatic mixers now. After that scalding incident at a B&B in Brighton—never again! It’s worth the extra quid for consistent temperature.
Drain choice matters more than you’d think. Linear drains look sleek, but they need a perfectly level subfloor. Point drains are easier to fit but can be a pain to keep clean. I’m partial to a neat, square grating drain myself—practical and doesn’t catch on everything.
Ventilation! Don’t just rely on an extractor fan. Make sure it’s powerful enough for the room size and actually vents outside, not just into the loft. I’ve lost count of the times I’ve seen condensation ruin a beautiful ceiling. A little window is brilliant if you’ve got one.
Materials… right. Porcelain tiles are great for floors—hard-wearing and less slippery when textured. But for walls, you can have a bit more fun. I used these lovely matte zellige-style tiles in my own shower. They’ve got character, but blimey, they were a fiddle to seal. And the grout—go for an epoxy grout if you can. It resists staining way better than the standard stuff.
Glass panels or screens need sturdy fittings. Those frameless ones look gorgeous, but they need solid walls to fix into—no flimsy studs. And get them toughened glass, obviously. Safety first, and all that.
At the end of the day, it’s about planning. Really thinking through how you’ll use the space, where the wet zone will be, how the light falls in the morning. It’s not just a functional thing; it’s your daily moment of calm. Or chaos, if you get it wrong! But get these bits sorted, and you’ll have a walk in shower that actually works. And doesn’t flood your neighbour’s kitchen.
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