Alright, mate, so you're thinking about getting one of those electric showers fitted? Blimey, let me tell you, it's not just about picking a fancy-looking unit off the shelf at B&Q. I learned this the hard way last autumn when I tried to sort my aunt's place in Croydon. What a palaver!
First off, let's chat about the electrics. These things are proper thirsty for power. We're not talking about your kettle here. Most decent electric showers need their own dedicated circuit straight from the consumer unit – that's the fuse box to you and me. None of this spurring off the ring main for the upstairs sockets, oh no. You need a big, chunky cable, usually 10mm² or sometimes even 16mm², running all the way back. And the MCB? Has to be rated for it, often 40 amps or more. I saw a job in Balham once where someone used a 32-amp breaker on a 10.5 kW shower… the breaker kept tripping every time they fancied a warm rinse. Nightmare.
Then there's the RCD. This is non-negotiable, honestly. It's that lifesaver switch that cuts the power if it senses anything dodgy. Your whole bathroom circuit should be on one, but for an electric shower, it's absolutely critical. Water and electricity, not exactly best mates, are they?
Right, plumbing. This is where people get tripped up thinking it's simpler. It ain't. An electric shower is cold-feed only. So you need a nice, solid cold water pipe coming up to it. Not some old 10mm micro-bore pipe that's been there since the 70s, gasping for breath. You need proper 15mm or even 22mm pipe to get enough flow and pressure. If your mains pressure is pathetic – like in my old flat in Archway where you'd be lucky to fill a toothbrush glass in under a minute – then your electric shower will just splutter and cry. It heats the water as it flows, so no pressure, no party.
And the location! You can't just stick it anywhere. It's got to be a certain distance from the bath or shower tray, away from any direct spray. The cable and pipework need to be routed properly, not just chased into the wall any old how. I remember a chap in Lewisham who installed his own, chased the cable in but didn't put it in proper conduit. Damp got in the wall, and a year later, the whole thing started buzzing. Gave him the fright of his life!
You also need to think about the shower unit itself. Get one that matches your electrical supply and water pressure. A 8.5 kW model might be fine for a low-pressure system, but if you've got good mains, you might want a 10.5 kW for a more powerful jet. It's a balancing act.
Honestly, the biggest thing? Get a proper, registered electrician and a decent plumber to talk to each other. Don't let them work in silos. My aunt's job got delayed a week because the sparky needed the pipe in place first, and the plumber was waiting for the cable to be run. Total communication meltdown.
It's a bit of a mission, but when it's done right? Nothing better than a reliable, hot shower that doesn't bankrupt you on the gas bill. Just please, for the love of all that's holy, don't try to DIY it unless you really, *really* know what you're doing. Seen too many botched jobs that look fine for a month, then all hell breaks loose. Trust me on that one.